Yellow

Trying to save this formulation for later experimentation; picked up somewhere on the Internet:

  • Basecoat with Iyanden Darksun
  • Wash with Devlan Mud
  • Two thin coats 1:1:1 ofIyanden Darksun, Skull White and Sunburst Yellow
    • Be careful to leave the recesses dark
  • Highlight 50/50 Skull White & Sunburst Yellow
  • Highlight 70/30 Skull White & Sunburst Yellow

I’ve got some Imperial Fists Terminators on which I’ve just never managed to get a good yellow going, so this is up next to try!

— Edit —

Another formula:

  • Basecoat with Iyanden Darksun
  • Wash with Ogryn Flesh
  • Highlight with Iyanden Darksun and Bleached Bone in 2:1, 1:1, 1:2 proportions
  • Highlight with pure Bleached Bone

Also, for white:

  • Basecoat of Astronomican Grey
  • Highlight Astronomican Grey and Skull White 2:1 then 1:1
  • Highlight pure Skull White

I think I like the softer shading on blue-based white schemes, but this looks reasonable as well.

Army Building via Spreadsheets: Tips

Recently there’s been a lot of hoopla about software used to construct army lists. I’ll (mostly) ignore for now the obvious irony in Lone Wolf attacking people for IP violations. As a case in point though, check out this graphic from their store page:

purchase_electronic

All that aside, I’ve never really seen the appeal. Admittedly, Lone Wolf’s Army Builder produces spiffy reports that would otherwise take a fair bit of time to do up—I know, I’ve spent a good bit of time LaTeXing fancy looking roster sheets myself. But for $40? A simple spreadsheet using software you already have or can get for free (e.g., OpenOffice), would seem to fill the bill nearly as well, as compared to shelling out basically the price of a whole squad or vehicle model.

I thought I’d note a couple tips on how I set up my spreadsheets. No rocket science, but maybe useful for people not as familiar with Excel or similar programs. I use OpenOffice Calc mostly, but everything should carry over directly to Excel, and I’ve noted differences of which I’m aware.

This is my basic format; note that I’ve sized the columns appropriately so it all fits in a portrait printout and I get as many units as possible onto one page:

army-spreadsheet2

First, note that I’ve got a ton of tabs. When I create a list for a “serious” game, I copy a previous similar list into a new worksheet tab in the file and work from there. That way I have one organized place with all the different lists I’ve used. There are two reasons for this: 1) It’s sometimes nice to go back and look up what list I used for a particular match. 2) It makes it easier to copy and paste different setups. For example, the next time I run Terminators in a list I can just tab over and copy their entry from one of my ‘Ard Boyz lists.

Another note is that I’ve set the header row to be in view no matter how I scroll down. This makes everything much easier to read. You can do this by selecting the row just below the one(s) you want visible, then hitting Window->Freeze Panes in the menu bar.

Somewhat unfortunately, frozen rows (or columns) aren’t put on each page of a print out. To do that you need to establish a repeating print range. In OpenOffice you can do that by going to Format->Print Ranges->Edit Print Range and entering the rows you want to repeat on each page. There are some notes on that here. In Excel you do that via File->Page Setup->Sheet->Print Titles and entering the rows you want. These let you tell the software to include the frozen header row on every page of your print out as well, not just the on-screen display.

Next, I have a bunch of different columns:

  • Type: The standard unit types—HQ, Troop, Transport (for non-FOC Dedicated Transports), Elite, Fast Attack, and Heavy Support. I abbreviate the latter as Attack and Heavy so the column can be smaller and have less whitespace in the other types.
  • Unit: The unit, with a designator when appropriate, e.g., “Tactical 3.”
  • Wargear: I use this column to itemize upgrades purchased for the unit. I could do this in the Unit column, but splitting it out makes for nice indentation and easier visual management.
  • Qty: How many of that item I am buying. This mostly applies to Wargear or Squadrons. A blank is assumed to be ‘1’.
  • Cost: How many points one item of that type costs, e.g., 90 for the initial 5 Marines in a Tactical Squad, or 5 for a Sternguard Combi-Melta.
  • Use: Whether or not I’m using the item in this list; an “X” mark here means yes. I’ll return to this in a second.
  • Total: How many points this item costs in total, i.e., quantity times cost.
  • Role: A place to put notes for myself on what I’m planning to do with that unit.

The Role column is obviously not critical, but can really help in working on and planning a list over time, e.g., for a big tournament. This is a simple addition that I’ve found has really helped focus my thinking about my units: What I want them to achieve, whether or not they’re worth it, and sticking to the plan in-game.

Somewhat similarly to the Role column, in working on a big list over time I frequently also add a column to track a unit’s status, i.e., purchased, assembled, painted, etc.

Now on to the slightly more interesting stuff…

I like making lists, and spend a decent amount of time before big games working out what I want to use. The Use column lets me experiment with that and quickly try out different combos. Basically, the Total column is only calculated if the item is marked as being used. This is done by filling the Total column with a formula like this:

=IF(F3="x";IF(D3=0;1;D3)*E3;0)

In that formula, F is the Use column, D the Qty column, and E the Cost. This is from the third row, hence F3, D3, E3. You can enter the equivalent formula into the first entry in your Total column, and then copy it down the page by selecting all the rows you want it in and then hitting Edit->Fill Down. The row numbers will be automatically appropriately increased for each one.

What that formula says is that if the Use column does not have an “X” then the item is not in use and the Total for it is set to 0 so that it’s not included in my army sum. If the item is in use, then the Total is set to be Qty times Cost. The inner IF in the formula says that if Qty is blank, then it should be assumed to be a 1. This makes the whole sheet much more visually appealing and easier to read than if it had a 1 in the Qty column for the vast majority of entries.

That may all sound like overkill, but what it lets me do is very quickly pop units and wargear in and out of my list to try out different combinations and see if I can come in under the points total for the match. Not sure you want that Assault Cannon? Uncheck it, and see what your new total is. Think you might actually need it? Mark it again and change the quantity on extra Devastator Marines to cover the points. Checking or deleting the Use column for the items makes that much, much easier to do than messing around with deleting rows, copying and pasting, etc. Once the whole list is set I’ll delete the rows for unused items, but while it’s in development this little trick makes it much easier to play around with and think about.

Note that to help this work better and make the list more appealing, I’ve also set zeros to not be displayed. In OpenOffice you can do this by selecting the cells, right clicking, and entering a ‘#’ (without quotes) in Format Cells…->Numbers->Format Code. In Excel you can do this over the whole spreadsheet by unchecking Tools->Options->View->Zero Values. You can also set it for groups of cells by selecting them and then selecting Format->Cells->Number->Category->Custom and entering “0;-0;;@” (without quotes) in the Type of that same dialog tab.

Of course, then I also have the sum total points for every unit and item in use in the list. This is just a simple sum over the Total column:

=SUM(G2:G65)

In this formula, column G is the Total column. Remember that the range entries will be adjusted appropriately as you insert or delete rows in the list.

Finally, as a sanity check to make sure I don’t break some basic rules—I’ve several times nearly included too many Elites!—my sheet also counts and displays the number of units I have of each type. You can do this with a formula like:

=COUNTIF(A2:A66;"HQ")

Where column A is Type. This sums up all the items that have “HQ” as their Type. I have similar entries for Troop, Transport, Elite, Attack, and Heavy, as shown in the screen above. This is just a nice quick check to make sure everything’s kosher.

And that about sums it up. You could do fancier things, like enforcing that Type be one of the four classes, or myriad other tasks, but this works pretty well for me. The only thing I would like that it doesn’t do, and which would be a little tricky to implement well, would be to sum up and present the total for each individual unit with its wargear. Obviously you could insert sums for each one to do so, but that’s a bit of a hassle. This feature isn’t critical, but it is something I’d be interested in figuring out if someone with more Excel/OpenOffice experience (I have very little) has an idea. All in all though this basic setup has worked well for me. Feel free to leave comments if there are any questions or suggestions.

Kingbreakers’ Color Scheme

kingbreakers-iconHaving just finished a squad of Tactical Marines and some painting notes to go with them, I thought I’d post my basic color arrangement so that I have it archived for future reference. That seems like a good, simple practice to really help consistently painting an army over time. I will confess that I do have one half squad of Marines in my army that don’t quite match the others because I wasn’t paying attention and straight up forgot to switch to my usual color for the shoulders and arms…

My Kingbreakers army originated with an inkling of a chapter of Marines more or less founded out of a heavily wooded planet, Forestway. This was actually inspired by a great painting a former roommate had hanging in our kitchen of a dark, overgrown forest and a vague, shadowy path through the woods. To go along with that foundation fluff notion, I wanted a color scheme that had several colors—the Marines are good for patterns and big color blocks—but was somewhat muted, with heavy earthy tones. After playing around with some of the online Marine painting tools, I eventually came up with this draft in GW’s tool, which is apparently not online anymore:

kingbreakers-color-schemeSome of the colors have shifted a little bit as I’ve used different paints, tried some inks, started using more washes, etc., but in general I remain very happy with this basic arrangement and a few variants for HQs, Veterans, and so on. The following is the full rundown on my basic paint outline, roughly in the order I usually follow. Unless noted otherwise, these are GW paints and colors. My core colors however are from P3 mostly due to happenstance; I used to frequent a Privateer-dominated store and just wound up getting them from there one day when I was ready to start.

  • Legs: P3 Hammerfall Khaki
  • Arms & shoulders: P3 Ordic Olive
  • Body & pack: P3 Exile Blue
  • Gun muzzles, clips, leg and knee joints, tubes, some helmet grills: Boltgun Metal
  • Shoulder trim: Mechrite Red
  • Chest plate, stomach power coils, weapon badge, helmet: Dwarf Bronze (2 coats)
  • Belts, pouches, holsters: Scorched Brown
  • Highlight/edge belts, pouches, holsters: Snakebite Leather
  • Gun body: Chaos Black
  • Should Insignia: Skull White
  • Purity seals and parchments:
    • Wax—Mechrite Red
    • Paper—Dheneb Stone or Bleached Bone
    • Paper highlight—Skull White
    • Writing—Chaos Black or Scorched Brown
  • Highlight chest plate, weapon badge, helmet: Burnished Gold
  • Eye base: Mechrite Red
  • Drybrush gun body: Shadow Grey
  • Body and pack second coat: P3 Exile Blue
  • Shoulders and arms second coat: P3 Ordic Olive
  • Legs second coat: P3 Hammerfall Khaki
  • Highlight/edge pack and chest: Midnight Blue, Enchanted Blue
  • Highlight legs: Bleached Bone or Dheneb Stone (bring out edges, joints, etc)
  • Wash legs: Gryphonne Sepia
  • Wash body and pack: Asurmen Blue
  • Backpack details: Boltgun Metal (important to do after pack wash)
  • Wash chest plate, weapon badges, guns, blades, helmets, backpack details: Badab Black
  • Iris of eyes: Blood Red (important to do after washing helmet)
  • Apply shoulder decals
  • Wash shoulders, arms: Thraka Green

Most of my marines have Kingbreakers icon shoulder decals, shown in the top right of this post. Without any clear inspiration, another foundational idea for my chapter that developed at some point is that one of their first missions involved dethroning—and in the process obliterating—a heretic king and his dominion. From that came the “Kingbreakers” moniker and the icon. I whipped up the latter in Illustrator based on some artwork I had made previously and printed it out on decal paper. The latter is somewhat of a hassle to acquire and not particularly cheap (it’s the shipping that kills), but worth it. The effect of that custom iconography on the look of my units is great, really boosting the uniqueness and ownership. I use MicroSol and MicroSet to apply them. A good writeup on working with custom decals is online at BoLS.

At the moment my least favorite process is painting the arms. For some reason they’re just always a hassle and the most fiddly bit. Looking to improve in the future, I need to move around some of my highlights and do more after the washes to bring the colors back out. I could also stand to put in more details, even just with some Boltgun Metal, of the arm panels, joints, etc., which I tend to skip.

However, long story short, that is how I do up my Kingbreakers, little by little!

Reinforcements for Sergeant Titus' Tactical 2 wait for their base flock to dry before leaping into the fray!

Reinforcements for Sergeant Titus' Tactical 2 wait for their base flock to dry before leaping into the fray!