Many do-it-yourself boardgame, role playing, and miniatures projects and prototyping efforts involve adhering printed sheets to other material, for example mounting onto foamcore to produce thicker chits or tiles. There are a couple different options to do this:

• White glue, otherwise known as PVA glue, is something everyone's worked with at some point, at least while they were children. PVA glue is great for some tasks, but over large, flat surfaces it tends to cause wrinkles and irregularites.
• Glue sticks apply a thinner adhesive layer, avoiding some of the wrinkling issues of normal white glue, but can be a hassle to apply and many don't adhere very strongly.
• Rubber cement doesn't have the same wrinkling issues as white glue, and cleans up very nicely. It takes some care to apply a thin enough coating, however, and can be somewhat weak.
• Label paper can circumvent most of those issues; simply print onto the label and stick it to the stock. This is a great option for many uses, but requires a ready supply of label paper in the correct sizes and is frequently not super strong.
• Spray adhesive works great for many gaming tasks. It's easy to apply a thin coat, doesn't wrinkle, is super strong, and requires almost no drying time. The downsides are that there's essentially no time to position the piece, your work area must be well ventilated, and care must be taken to not get it onto anything else (e.g. your desk or carpet).

All that being said, spray adhesive is an excellent option for many applications. The following are some tips on using it well.

• Try to apply a very thin coating. Resist the urge to go back over the piece repeatedly. Even a thin layer will adhere more than well enough, and applying too much will cause it to pool up a bit, potentially wrinkling or making a mess.
• To help prevent the adhesive from pooling up, hold the can well away from the target piece, but not too far. About 6 inches is generally good.
• Unless you're consciously moving the can as you depress the trigger, the area under the initial spray will get a bit of a sustained blast until you start moving it and too much adhesive will collect there. To avoid that, start spraying just next to the piece and then quickly sweep across it.
• Be generous with protecting the work area under your piece. Scrap paper works great for this, and chances are good a great deal of it can be had easily from work. Newspaper does not work well as the ink comes off easily, especially if it comes in contact with the glue. Either through direct contact or rubbing off on your fingers it's bound to find its way onto your piece, smudging and streaking it.
• Change out your scrap paper often if you're coating multiple pieces and then applying them to some stock. Generally you can't do more than two pieces until the overspray caught by the scrap paper will start to stick to the pieces too easily and strongly.
• Make sure you have good ventilation in your work area! Most spray adhesives are as noxious as spray paint.
• Hold the piece by the edges as much as possible. Touching the sticky part will possibly damage the piece trying to disattach, and will get glue on your fingers, which will pick up dirt and then rapidly transfer it to your piece as you work with it.
• Don't let the piece contact anything until it's lined up near perfectly! With most spray adhesives you won't be able to reposition the piece at all once it touches down.
• Once the piece is put in place, rub it down and apply pressure to spread out the adhesive, make sure the whole surfarce area is attached, and to make a firm bond. However, don't use your fingers, they'll transfer glue and dirt onto the piece! Use a clean napkin or scrap of cloth instead.